Tuesday, November 2, 2010



Pakistani, Indian soldiers to exchange smiles

Pakistan and India ‘formally’ agreed here to tone down the hostile gestures which formed an essential part of the flag-hoisting and flag- lowering drill essayed by the soldiers of the two countries at the Wagah border.

What may inspire some confidence in the ability of the two ‘hostile’ neighbours to resolve issues, the toning-down was not even on the agenda of the talks held between the Pakistan Rangers and the Border Security Force of India.

In the last biannual talks in March this year, the two sides had agreed to do away with some of the gesturing such as thumb-showing and staring.
It was decided that soldiers on both sides would shake hands and smile as the gates of the border crossing were opened.

Previously, the handshake would be accompanied by aggressive posturing by the soldiers.
A Pakistan Rangers spokesman had clarified at the time that Maj-Gen Yaqoob had refused to lower the intensity of foot-pressing and leg-stretching gestures, arguing that these were the symbols of an active parade and a soldier’s fitness.


Now I'm not arguing against world peace. And anything that would ease the tensions between two nuclear powers, whose fraught relationship has led to more than one war, is obviously a good thing. But I can't help but mourn the passing of the colourful Wagah border ceremony, whose pantomime aggression is to be toned down to help improve relations between India and Pakistan.
Supposedly a simple flag- lowering exercise on the road through their joint border, the 45-minute parade manages to be by turns, ferocious, ludicrous and touching. In elaborate turbans topped with huge fans, complicated uniforms and shiny black boots the soldiers from the two nations high-kick towards each other. They snort. They stamp. Their eyes are crazed and their moustaches are waxed until they resemble a cross between circus ringmasters and John Cleese in Monty Python's ministry of silly walks.
They meet and snap to attention; pushing out their fists and raising their thumbs, it looks like they might hit each other. But then they are off, high-kicking again, slamming their heels to the ground with a crack that sounds like gunfire.
The crowd loves it. Comedian and travel writer Michael Palin described it perfectly as "chauvinism at its most camp". Watching from the Pakistani side last winter, it was impossible not to get carried away as the audience, made up of families, school trips and tourists, cheered "Long live Pakistan!" and tried desperately to drown out the twice-as-big Indian audience just feet away. We applauded louder still when it seemed like the Pakistani flag was being lowered infinitesimally slower than the Indian one.
The guards come from India's Border Security Force (BSF) and the Pakistan Rangers, and have been carrying out the choreographed routine since 1959.

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